1956 Ford Alternator Conversion
February 2002 , Submitted by Roy Ireland
I researched several methods
of installing an alternator in my 1956 Ford 292 Y-block. Over the last
couple of years, I have observed several conversions at car shows. All
of them used some variation of modifications to the stock generator
brackets to adapt them to a GM-style alternator. I also read a couple
of articles in FoMoCo Times, the publication of the Crown Victoria Association,
that described a couple of ways to mount an alternator on a Y-block.
Vintage Air in San Antonio, Texas
also makes a combination alternator/AC compressor mounting system for
Y-blocks. This system is designed for a double pulley setup and also
requires relocating the dipstick tube. I decided to use the design by
Steve Behuniak as described in the August 1999 issue of FoMoCo Times.
The advantage to Steve's design is that it requires no welding or alteration
of the stock generator brackets. You can return to the stock generator
setup in about an hour, if desired. Materials needed are an 8"
length of 7/16" threaded rod, some spacers, bolts and two pieces
of 3/16" x 1" flat stock drilled with two holes. These act
as offsets to allow the alternator to hang from the threaded rod. The
flat stock is cut 3 1/8" long and 7/16" and 3/8" holes
are drilled 2 1/8" apart. No special tools are needed other than
a hacksaw and a drill.
Refer to the photos on the right.
The pieces are assembled as shown in the brack02.jpg photo. Steve's
original design used stacks of flat washers as spacers.
I elected to use a couple of bushings to eliminate the need for so many
washers. It gives the installation a little cleaner look. The number
of washers/bushings will depend on which particular alternator is used.
The alternator is positioned along the
threaded rod so that the pulley aligns with the fan and crankshaft pulleys.
See brack03.jpg photo. The brack08.jpg photo shows the alternator installed
on the engine.
I used a GM 10SI 63 amp alternator
from Autozone P/N DL7127M. I paid $52.99 plus a $15.00 core charge.
This alternator is from a 1980 Chevy Malibu and is a three-wire style.
Wiring up the alternator using the stock '56 Ford generator wiring harness
is pretty simple. An alternator pigtail is also needed. I used NAPA
P/N VRC148 $3.77.
Wiring
hookups:
1. Disconnect the battery
2. Remove the #10 Yellow/Black wire from the "A" terminal
on the voltage regulator and attach it to the "B" terminal.
(It is OK to leave the "B" terminal connected to the circuit.)
3. Remove the Black/White band wire from the "F" terminal
on the regulator and remove the 18 GA yellow/black wire from the
"A" terminal (there were two black/yellow wires on the "A"
terminal). Take these two wires and connect them together. In summary,
this should leave you with two 10 GA wires on the "B" terminal,
two 18 GA wires connected together by themselves, and no wires on the
"A" or "F" terminals.
4. At the alternator, attach the pigtail to the alternator (most pigtails
have a large 12 GA, usually red wire and a small wire, usually white).
You must make sure the larger wire is in the #2 ("F") slot
on the alternator and attach an eyelet with a #12 size hole. Connect
this wire along with the 10 GA yellow/black from the harness to the
"BAT" terminal on the alternator.
5. Connect the 18 GA black/white band wire from the harness to the new
pigtail small wire that goes to the #1 ("R") slot on the alternator.
6. The 18 GA black/red wire in the harness is a ground and can be connected
to one of the case cover bolts. Run a 10 GA ground wire from the case
ground to the frame to insure a solid ground connection.
7. Reattach the battery terminals.
